meaden

Rough it out with a small saw then use sand paper "shoe-shine" style to round it to the right contour. The way the grain runs it would be hard using a knife.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

If you have a bandsaw, use it to cut the primary shape, That is from the front to the rear as seen from the top. Then with a fine tip felt marker, draw the center line of the tip. Again, I used my Stanley block plane to begin shaping the tip. Use a woodworkers tip by first caving the tip shape into 1/4. then 1/8 then 1/16 of the rounded surface, as you would if you wanted to carve a round handle. I don't know of any way to completely avoid nicks and a cut here and there except to watch where your fingers are.
I approached this task with a little anxiety myself, but with a little forethought it can be done. You may be able to find more advise on this site .I also have on hand Harry Higely's books that I often use for reference when building. The explanations are very thorough and he uses a lot of photos. hell, if I can do it, then anybody can.LOL
Good luck. Oh yeah, if you are unsure about it just tack glue the wingtip on. If you make a mess of it, you can then remove it and start over.

HeliTB

Well Well...JollyRoger I was wondering where you went. I actually glued them tonite only after a few days of planing and sanding. Got them roughly how they should look. I will finish sanding to shape now that are mounted to the wing core. That will make it alot easier to see the shape and contour needed.

I'm quite proud of myself. I tried to justify buying table jigsaw for the wingtips but wasn't sure I could get that passed my wife. If I build another plane from a kit, you better know I'm buying one.

I should finish the sanding tomorrow so I should be able to post pics so you guys can see how they turned out.

jrcaster

Another nice tool is one of those el-cheap-o band saws that you can get for under 100 dollars. like Roger said saw out the vertical shape first, then you can find a low tack glue or double sided tape and put the blocks back together. That way you can use the bandsaw again to cut out your airfoil shape. Do all of your pencil drawing before you do any cutting. Then just glue your tips on and do your final shaping.

If you want to get by even cheaper, go for a coping saw, sometimes called a jewelers saw. It is a little slower, and a lot more physical effort, but at under 20 dollars for it, every toolbox should have one. You should be able to find any of these at your local home center (Lowes, Home Depot), Or check out Harbor Freight.

HeliTB

Thanks jrcaster. Good advice.

HeliTB

Okay all, I'm kind of stuck.

Question:
On page 9 instruction 27 - This PW is not in my kit, not unless I have to cut it from the scrap. What did you guys do? What size should I cut it?

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

This is one of the problems I had with this kit: No parts list. If I remember correctly, part PWwas a seperate item. I can't remember the dimensions though. Anybody out there who can?
Give Sig a call and find out. The ply was 1/16" thick and seems it was 1" square, but don't take my word for it.
This is one kit that needs upgrading and updating. Maybe laser cut parts and better manual, with a parts list. C'mon you guys at Sig, how about it?
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

HeliTB

Thanks for the response. I'm going to move on to building the fuselage. Until I can contact SIG next week unless someone has the dimensions.

jrcaster

HeliTB, To get your dimensions, Go to your center page and measure in the distance for your ailerons. This should help you get the width of the PW blocks. (Center joint to the aileron end). Then measure the width of the aileron stock plus the cutout that you are to make in the wing. This should give you the length of the PW blocks.

Double check your parts, they may be part of another plywood piece such as the plywood doublers for the fuselage, or a former.

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All Here is a pic of my Kougar with a GMS 47 APC e 12x4 prop
Also a pic of Kobra E plane Hyperion 3025/08 Apc e 10x7 .
Both planes fly just GREAT!!!

Dan

HeliTB

You guys will never guess what I found in the bag with the engine mount. The PW, I guess that's why you are suppose to build in order. I did not build the firewall yet, because I'm undecided on whether or not I am going to mount the engine at an angle or straight up and down yet. Thanks for help with dimensions.

What's easiest to mount the engine? Any performance or mounting issues doing straight up and down?

I will be using a OS 46 AX w/stock muffler.

bayareajeff

Helitb
If you mount it like they say.. the muffler is more under the body rather than right at the wing..

Jeff

BillS

Have a Kougar with an upright engine and have now moved it to 9:00 o'clock. Wanted the carb CL closer to the tank CL. With a cowl the engine position would be better at the position on the plans. A 9:00 engine requires too much cutting of the cowl for muffler clearance. Also the bottom of my wings collect exhaust and a deflector will probably help keep the airplane clean.

Dave Brown engine mounts have worked well for me.

Bill

HeliTB

Thanks for the suggestions. I guess I will mount like the manual suggests.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Just put in a good brushless motor and don't worry about which position to use. No need to cut out carb, muffler and needle valve thus avoid hacking up the cowl. Only one hole needed in the bottom for cooling and yer all set. I recommend a Hyperion 4020-10, 5S pack and stand back.

You're off to a good start.

bayareajeff

and $2000 worth of batteries!

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

125.00 for batteries!!!! NO noise, No smell, No mess to clean , but most importanly NO dead sticks..try It u'll like IT..

Dan

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

DBono: Are you thinking of A123 cells? Might be worth a try with a 6S pack. For the price that folks are paying on EPAy, for the Dewalt packs it will come out to somewhere around 60.00. Most people are paying around 90-100.00 for the Dewalt packs. Then make up their own.

bayareajeff

I would like to have electric and I do fly park zone planes.. I have a few . However the cost is a little steep to do it right for me. Althoiugh not $2000 or even close, Its still closer to $400 for the Kougar. Batteries (2 sets) Brushless and ESC... Not to mention a charger and balancer..


By the way I was so inspired by the thread again.. I fixed my Kougar up and went and flew it this weekend.. Still flies great!



Jeff

jrcaster

Can you imagine going to NASCAR, or a drag race and no noise? Who would pay for that?

Personally I like the noise. Clean up is a small price to pay.

meaden

No fun.

I like my Kougar sounding more powerful than a box fan on a hot, August, Georgia afternoon...

Don't run lean. Don't run out of fuel...no dead sticks...

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

All you non-believers who are aligned with the dark side of the force shall one day see the errors of your ways and repent. You will find enlightenment by going with the great electron flow.
Bwuhahahahahah

bayareajeff

Jolly,
Can you part out the cost for us.. and what goes where?

Jeff

submikester

My Feedback: (6)

I put another two flights on mine today, my Magnum 46XLS just seems a bit light on the power for my tastes though. It seems to be getting more powerful slowly but it was hard to tell in the wind today.

I've got a buddy who has said he will give me a brand new rear exhaust OS 61 though I'm not sure which one it is. Hopefully I'll pick it up this Sunday.

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Jollyroger I'm thinking of giving a the A123 a try..Might try using the solderless tube.
My last 2 e plane builds I had to add weight to the nose..So the a123 just might solve that problem..

Dan