HeliTB

jrcaster...Thanks for the glue answer. Also thanks for the advice on the Kavalier Kit.

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All Jollyroger I have used 3 Hyperions in my Electric's and couldn't be any more happy with there perfromace..I have the Hyperion 3025/08 in my Kobra, drawing 32 amps /340 watts with a APC e 10x5, with a 10x7 I get 40 amps/400 watts.

Dan

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

The Kavalier would be a better kit for low time pilots. Since it is a midwing, it will be easier on the nerves as well.
As I mentioned before concerning wing skins, I also found 12" wide balsa skins at Lone Star balsa.
http://www.lonestar-models.com/
I used the Balsa USA 10" skins and still had to add a couple inches to one corner. These skins were very well made and ready for final sanding.
I had no problem using the 3M 77 spray adhesive. A coat on the wing and one on the balsa, let it set for 25-30 seconds then carefully apply to the wing. This glue works just as well as the others and easier to apply. Caution: The new version of "77" may not be compatible. Check for other threads concerning compatibility. 3M makes other spray adhesives which are supposed to be foam safe. Maybe and maybe not. It's best to test on a small piece of scrap foam before using.
DBono, I use one of those in my Sig Seniorita LOL. 3S Lipo and 11X7. ROG at half throttle. I also use a 3014-10 in my Ace 4-20 and have a 3019-10 for future use. Really like these Hyperions so I bought the new 50 Amp ESC with the 4A switchmode BEC. Programming is a little clumsy using a radio, so I guess I'll have to get the computer hook-ups.

HeliTB

Despite all the warning...I am going to attempt to build the Sig Kougar. It's beautiful plane on the box and the pics I've seen on this thread. Of course those were built and covered by the prefessionals like yourselves. A man gotta start somewhere. Please be patient with as will need everyone's collective help. This thread has given me a good perspective of what to expect and look for. Of course when building you find your own unique problems.

The reasons I'm building this kit:

1. Club Spring Contest.
2. Something to do over the winter
3. Everyone said SIG planes go together nice because they are laser cut.
4. I think I can do it with your help.

My first question: Can I build the fuse before the wings or do I have to do the wings first?

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Go by the manual. Do the wings first . Before gluing them together, use the outline of the wing at the leading edge to make a pattern for the leading edge/fuse fairing. then go ahead and build the fuse. take your time and get the bottom front shaped and sanded to match the bulkheads. Then shape and sand the wing/fuse fairing to match.
I glued the wings together and then shaped the leading edge. It is easier to match both sides this way. If you do not have a small block plane, you will need one. I found a nice little Stanley at the local hardware.This one worked better than the others I have, even better than the Master Airscrew plane.
I used 1/8th balsa sticks to attach the canopy and the turtle deck.

HeliTB

Any other tools I will need to get the job done right?

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Jollyroger I now building the Bingo 20..Which is like the ACE 4-20 except for the wing location..Another electric one..

Dan

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Dan, Looks really great. The formers and ribs look almost laser cut. Where did you find this one?
What motor are you planning to use?

Heli: you will need something to weigh the wing sheeting down after laminating the balsa. Don't forget to use the beds. Sand paper. Lots of sandpaper. From 80 to 400 grit. I used 600 and 1500 grit as well to get the smoothest finish possible. Use some sanding blocks. Also I use 3M sanding pads. They come in medium, fine and superfine grits and last a long time. I also have a couple Permagrit sanders which are not cheap but well worth the money.
You will need some clamps, squares for framing the fuse(I use a couple framing squares) some modelers pins and a flat building board. You can use thick styrofoam or ceiling tiles(2X4) for actually building over. There is a thread on kit building at R/C Universe:http://www.rcuniverse.com/ Lots of helpful talk.
Good luck on your build and keep us posted.
I have one last section of film to apply and it will be finished as far as covering is concerned. Got the bottom covered last night and started again around 8:00Am DST this morning. Screwed up one piece and now have to cut another from a new roll.[:@]
cheers Jollyroger

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Jollyroger I got the plans from--http://www.flying-models.com/ PLan# Cf929..The parts were lazer cut by http://www.lazer-works.com/.

I've used the Hyperion motors in the past, this time I'm trying a Scorpion 3020/12.
http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...399c3ef356d32f

Should be finished soon.

Dan

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Today I put the UNcovered Bingo on a scale, 42 oz was the weight..I was shooting for AUW of 48 oz, so I'm close..The Scorpion 3012/20 with a 10x5 APC e prop will, be give me 25 amps-253 watts, 80+ watts per lbs,with a 10x7 31 amps-319 watts/100+ watts per lb.
These numbers I got using a 3s4000..I'm leaning towards the 10x5.

Dan

Dan

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All Here is a pic of my Kavalier..Made"IT"into a tail dragger, added wheel pants.
Dan

HeliTB

Well I started the build of my Kougar. Lastnight I sanded, taped and glued 7 planks for one wing. I will do the other today hopefully. That's tedious work to get those edges lined up.

Question: Now that it's dry do I sand with 80 grit?

meaden

Take a scraper or a razor blade to the glue. Start with 100-120 and finish with 220 you don't want to sand holes in it just get it nice and smooth.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Well, it's finished. More or less. All I need is check the CG for battery pack location.
Empty weight w/out batt: 4#1oz. With 5S 3700 Hyperion Lipo is 5#3oz. Exactly what Sig recommended. I'm still looking for a suitable pilot and need to come up with an intrument panel photo.
Tonight I tested the power setup:
Axi 2826/10
CC Phoenix 80
5S Lipo
10X7 APCE
46.8A 751W
11X5.5 45A 850 W
The 10X7 prop really sings, but I fear the motor is being driven a little too hard.
I will post pics as soon as they're downloaded and adjusted for posting.
Cheers Jollyroger

HeliTB

Well, the wing planks are glued and ready for sanding. I just went over it lightly with 80 grit, I will hit with 120 and then 220 tomorrow. The planks were easier than I thought. My Sig Core Bond should be here tomorrow, so hopefully by Thursday night's end I will be putting the skins on the foam.

Meaden...Thanks for the tip on sanding.

HeliTB

Well I making steady progress. My Sig Core Bond came I glued the skin to the foam last night. This morning I sanded the edges. Here are some pics of the wings after skinning.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Okay, here are some pics.
Plane weight less batteries: 4#1oz.
" " with batteries:5#3oz. Right on the money as Sig suggested AUW is 5 1/4#.
All I need to do is now balance it with the battery pack and make a battery tray.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Okay, let's try it again.......................

HeliTB

I'm doing pretty good, but I have a question. I've glued the leading and trailing edges, but I'm looking and thinking ain't no way I can shape them to be identical. Help !!!

What's the easiest way to shape and sand the leading and trailing edges?

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

The wings look good from what I can see, start with a small hand plane to knock down the corners. You will need to follow the contour of the wing from both the top and bottom surfaces. You will remove quite a bit of the leading edge, but be careful you don't over do it. I used a small Stanley block plane I found at hardware store. can't remember if it was Ace or True -value. Anyway it is the best 10.00 spent. Much better than the Master Airscrew.
You will also need to find or make some long sanding blocks to final shape the L.E. Most of us have the Great Planes Easy sanders, available in several lengths up to 22". I applied wide masking tape to the wing just behind the L.E. and proceded to pull the snading bar forward, following the wing contour. It is an arduous task, but stay with it and you will end up with a nice wing. Also don't worry too much about getting the L.E. absolutely perfect in shape. A little off here and there will make no difference. Just make sure the final sanding is smooth enough for covering. I ended up going all the way to 1500 grit, but that's just me.
The smoother the Final sanding is, the better it will look. As Dick Watz(R/C Report) told me,"You can never sand too much."
When sanding sheete of balsa edge glued together it is recommended to start with 80 grit but since you have them glued to the wing then finish up with the final sanding. You can never get it too smooth. Just remember, you also have to carve and shape the L.E. to fuse fairing as well as glue it on the wing. This was the most difficult task for me. Some builders have used the wing beds for that . Just cut out the section that fits where it's supposed to and glue it to the wing. Use some light weight spackle to fill the surface and sand smooth. Voila! You have perfectly matching fairings. Wished I had kept mine.
Keep us posted.
BTW I tested the power setup with a 10X7 APCE and the current went up to 46.8A, the power dropped to 745 watts and the voltage dropped to 16.7. So now I'm going to trim the the 11X5.5 down to 10.5X5.5 to see what I get. At 5 1/4 Lbs. 650 W or so may work after all, but I need to get the current level down to avoid frying the Axi.
Cheers all jollyroger

jrcaster

HeliTB, Jollyroger has you going in the right direction. When you get masking tape, get the low tack painters tapes. The standard masking tapes will pull fibers out of the balsa sheeting.

If you are woried about matching the leading edges, check out the Great Planes contour sanders. These should make final shaping easy.


Jollyroger, try a 10 X 6 prop.

HeliTB

Okay...I completed the LE, boy is my wife going to kill me since I did it in the house. I used the Master AirScrew Plane with good success. I have only went to 180 grit for now. Boy is my arm tired. I will finish up with about 280 to 320 for final sanding.

Question: Do I curve the TE or should it be flat to mount the aileron?

I will post pics once I finish the TE.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Heli, Do not curve the trailing edge. Leave it flat, but make sure you give it sanding anyway. Be careful not to sand away the thickness.
LOL I did all my wing sanding and shaping outside last summer. You should ahve seen the mess on the lawn......shavings all over the place....the squirrels prpbably snatched them up for their nests. helps to have a Corona to make the job go easier.
I forgot about the low tack tape, I didn't have any problems anyway though.
cheers jollyroger

HeliTB

jollyroger...Thanks for the help.

Here's the pics of the wings with the LE and TE edges done. Next is the end cap of the wings which I will start maybe later today or tomorrow.

HeliTB

Okay...No one told me the wing tips were harder than the LE carving and sanding. I have not completed one yet. I have sliced off the tip of ring finger and sliced the kncuckle on my thumb.

Can someone share a safe (maybe easy as well) way to do this? I need my fingers as I am IT Specialist.