jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Give me a day or so and I will set all the major components back in place and take a few snaps. I'll take a closeup of the motor mount. Right now I'm ready to finish with the wing mounting....time to get out the measuring tape and get'er squared up.
I checked out APC and Master Airscrew for 3 blade props, so far Master Airscrew and Graupner seem to be the only sources, but I'm going to keep searching.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Well, I took a few snaps this morning, so here they are:
Some of these photos may not be as clear as I'd like them to be, but I'm using a somewhat cheap digital camera.
Anyway, I still have a lot of detail work left and I really don't know if I'll even get in the air this fall. It may end up just setting in the hangar until next spring, but....you never know.
cheers jollyroger

bayareajeff

Jollyroger...
Very cool! How do you make those holes round like that? It looks great. Well if you lived where I live you could fly all year.. but there in Michigan.. Yikes. Thanks for posting.

JEff

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

I use a template to mark out the position and size of the holes, then using a hole saw mounted in a drill press, I simply drill the balsa out. I always use an undersized holesaw and finish with a drum sander again mounted in a drill press.
If there is any final finnishing to do I use fine grit paper wrapped around a tube or similar sized conatiner or whatever I get my hands on.
There is a modeler in Britain who sells hole saws specifically made for this type of work, but they are not cheap, probably worth the expense though if you plan to do a lot of this type of modification.
The weather out here has been unsettled for the past several days....mostly cloudy and windy and around 60*. Today it cleared off and now 70* BUT STILL WINDY. Oh well......
cheers jollyroger

nsmjim

My Feedback: (52)

Dang it Jolly Roger! Thanks to you I may have to build one of these again
It's been years but I built several and all I can remember is a lot of sanding, particularly on the nose section!

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

The nose does require quite a bit of shaping. To begin with, I use a small block plane...my favorite is a Stanley that's about 2" long or so. Quite small really. I shave off the excess balsa down to a point where I can follow that with a Permagrit coarse and then using fine grit to finish it.
That little Stanley block plane is the best $10.00 I've spent on just about any tool, and I have 3 others in that same size but don't work as well.
Right now I'm finish sanding the fuse and have a couple small gouges to fill and it will be ready for covering. With a plane like this, I like to use 600 grit for final sanding. If you can find a grain filler that is compatible with film coverings, that would make a difference as well. Last night I tried the technique of lightly misting the balsa with water to bring up the fuzzies and then sand it down again with finer grits. It seems to be working so I'll continue on that method.
The wing still waits its turn which is today.
cheers jollyroger

jrcaster

JR, do you have any pics on the battery box/hatch set up? by the way, nice work.

Anyway, I built one of these back around 93, I thought I was ready to fly the thing till I saw how fast it went. Glad I had someone else take it up for it's maiden. I took it back home and back in storage. I got out of the hobby so it hasn't gone up again. I just started flying this summer so I might get to fly this thing yet.

I made mine look just like the one on the box. I used silver Monokote, and scuffed it and used Goldberg Urathane paint for the red and blue, (not made anymore). I also used clear dope around the edges of all the stickers.

Another very usefull tool is the Hot Glove. It is almost a necessity when covering a solid surface. With an Iron or gun you will get air pockets and the Glove helps seal them down. I also used balsa-rite on this one.

bayareajeff

JollyRoger...

Do the lightening holes actually make a weight differnence? If so, how much? Estimate, guestimate?
Jeff

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

I'm still working on the hatch. Basically it's the canopy and the balsa deck, which I reinforced with fiberglass and epoxy....still very light, which will be attached to the fuse with small CF tubes and rare earth magnets. I have to figure out exactly where the battery pack will be located. I hope under the canopy... maybe a mistake on my part, but I will know today as I have to test fit the wing again and add some balsa fill strip to the wing saddle as well as a few other details. So at that point I will check for CG. As far as lightening holes, I do believe they make a difference as for every ounce removed from the tail, means 3 ounces less from the nose, but most modelers know this. I have done this before and actually had to add a little to the aft end. Dunno about this bird though. The wing, with all the hardware including aileron servo, linkage, ailerons and landing gear weighed 27 oz. Not bad considering the foam core and balsa sheeting.
Right now I'm shaping the wing tips. Glad I purchased some permagrit sanders as the coarse sander makes short work of this task. They weren't cheap but worth it.
I also plan to find a pilot and make up a cockpit with instruments, this weekend. I found a jet pilot at Hobby Lobby which seems to fit. All in all this has turned out to be a learning experience for me. As simple as this plane appears to be at first glance, there is more to it than one might think.
HAH, I may even add some missiles...now won't that look cool?
cheers jollyroger

Jon.

Submikester, Nice job on the kougar build. How’s this for a Kougar? It’s an original kit from 1975 that I just modified and recovered.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Nice covering job. It should be easy enough to track when yer turnin' an burnin'.

JWQ500RC

My Feedback: (2)

Reading these post has made start building my 7th Kougar. I started this one about two years ago and got sidetracked. Today I sheeted the wings and glued the leading and trailing edges on. Thanks for getting me off the couch and building again.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

There's nothing like finally finishing a plane after it's sat around for a while. Good for you.
Now I need to finish my Sig Citabria and Balsacraft FW-190, put my Tiger Moth back together and let's see, I know there's something else.....

jrcaster

Don't forget the hatch. Finish the Kougar first.

I know how you feel, Airmeister scratch build needs cowl and pushrods, Sportster bipe 40 half complete. Actually when I got the Sportster it was half done. I got the plans but no instructions. Glad Great Planes has them online now.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

feh, I keep finding details to finish on the wing. Forgot to glue the balsa blocks on the leading edge at the center to fair out. Oh well. Time to cut and shape. Otherwise the wing has been sanded and sanded, filled and sanded LOL.
The fuse is covered and the tail feathers are on. Set up the rudder and elevator to check for proper throws...no problem using HS-225BB servos. Using Robart hinge pins for the tail.
Now I've got to find a pilot and make up the cockpit with instruments. Hmmm, it seems that I just can't stop with this bird.
Cheers jollyroger

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

So far:
Since these pics were taken, I've painted the canopy, and added a few details to the cockpit. I need to find a reasonable looking instrument panel photo and then cut, copy and paste.LOL
Hope to get the wing covered today, but still have to finish fairing the leading edge to fuse. Hope all goes well with this part of the project. It took me several attempts to get started shaping the balsa. Finally got it to where I could live with and then added balsa filler to round it out. Now comes the sanding and shaping.

HeliTB

Okay guys, I read this thread from beginning to end. I will start my build in a few days. My Kougar arrived yesterday by UPS. Let me start by saying I've never built a plane before. I have built a few helicopters. Yes, I'm a heli-man coming over to planes. And yes, I have an Alpha 40 Trainer that I'm learning to fly with a Flight Instructor. I wanted to build something from a kit though. A few questions because the thread wasn't obvious.

1. Sig Bond or what else can I use?
2. Sig Core Bond or what else can I use?
3. Sig Epoxy Glue or what else can I use?

Boy those wings are intimidating. Any pointers on the wings for a first-time builder?

HVACMAN

My Feedback: (127)

This thread fired me up also, It has not been flown yet. It is at 6.0lbs dry, glassed and painted.OS .46 AX and roahm air retracts.

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All Here is my Kougar GMS 47 Apc 12x4 it ROCKS!!! Also my Electric Kobra, Hyperion 3025/08/Titan 50 amp ESC/APC e 10x7.
Jollyrodger: Where did you get the 2" spaces for your Kougar?

Dan

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The question was asked as to how much drilling out the holes will lighten A plane. I built A SIG Kavalier for A pilot for racing. After it was all together but not covered it came out nose heavy. I drilled 2 and 3 inch holes from the leading edge sheeting on both sides and got it to CG perfectly.
On my SIG Kouger I'm building for the same pilot I ran into A problem. I drilled holes in the tail feathers and top and bottom of the fuse just like JR. I started to put all the gear in this week to see where the CG was going to be so I could move it around to the correct places. The Webra 55 with spinner and tuned pipe made this plane so nose heavy it flips over on the prop while sitting on my bench. [:@] This is not A real good thing!! So far I have had to cut out the bottom sheeting and my way cool and perfect hatch I had for the elevator servo so I could install the battery as far back as it would go.
Looks like I will be OK but I hate going backwards on A build. So much for out smarting myself. THINK AHEA
D.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Dan, believe it or not, I used hole saws, you know the kind of drill attachments used to drill holes for door hardware, pipe throughs etc. I used one that was a little smaller or so, then I finished out with sanding drums.
HeliTB, Epoxy is too heavy for skinning wings. Sig Core Bond is recommended,although some people have used Gorilla Glue(very sparingly as in a very light skin). There is an article in an old Model Airplane News Magazine describing the use of Elmer's white glue and an old iron. I used 3M 77 spray glue. It was an older can so it was safe to use on foam.
As for the skins, I bought some 10" wide 1/16 in thick balsa skins through my LHS. They are available from Balsa USA. I believe Sig also has some wide sheeting. When I looked through the construction manual and came to the part where you have to glue numerous small pieces of balsa sheeting together, I said nuts, there has got to be some balsa sheets available to do this. Edge gluing a lot of pices together is not my idea of a good time.
Balsa USA has them in different thickness and length. Check it out:http://www.balsausa.com/
I will have the wing finish sanded tonight and covered tomorrow....I hope. Then, I can check the CG.
Cheers jollyroger

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All Jollyroger
I'd like to know where you got the 2" spaces to mount your E motor. Do you think the Axi you provide enough power for the Kougar..I'd really like to convert mine..Ive been biten by the E flight bug..

Dan

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Dan, The spacers are made of nylon and can be purchased at the hardware store. They come in lengths of 1/4, 1/2,3/4 and 1" . I doubled them up to get the 2" needed.
As for the Axi, well I don't think it will have enough power at safe operating levels, but I'm going to try it anyway. I am considering a Hyperion 4020/10 outrunner which has a high enough KV and yet able to produce more than enough power. I might even consider a NeuMotor LOL for rediculous power.
If you can get a goodmotor to fit, even with a gearbox, such as a HackerB50 or a Mega with a planetary would also do the trick. Inrunners are more efficient, although the Hyperions and even some of the new Hacker outrunners are pretty good as well.
A 5S Lipo seems to be the right size for this type and size of plane. Just make sure there is plenty of ventilation for motor/ESC and battery cooling.
cheerio jollyroger

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Deleted redundant post

jrcaster

HeliTB, this is not really a good first kit. Going through the manual I guess you have seen alot of carving and shaping. The leading edges of the wing have to be right. That could mean the difference between a nice flyer, or flying like a dog. You might want to consider getting the Kavalier kit and build it first. It still requires some shaping but not near the amount as the Kougar. It will also give you good experience in the build department. It is a shoulder wing so it would be a good transition plane between the Trainer and the Kougar.

Sig Bond is basically white glue similar to Tite Bond or Elmers wood glue. I would recomend wood glues for exterior use, Tite Bond 2 or Elmers Pro Wood Glue.

Sig Core Bond is a sort of Contact cement. You might want to do a search for Foam core wings to get a good procedure to skin them. Make sure you have plenty of weight to cure the cores.

Sig epoxy glue, Get 5 minute and 30 minute epoxies. If something will take longer than a minute or two to set up, use the 30 minute epoxy. Also use the 30 minute epoxy to paint the firewall for fuelproofing.